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For my RDO packstack Kilo install setup, I followed the normal Quick Start  steps on a bare metal installed version of CENTOS 7 (CentOS-7-x86_64-LiveKDE-1503).

I ran the following step in the install guide:

# packstack --allinone

The packstack installed failed with the following error on the console:

Error: Execution of '/usr/bin/rpm -e mariadb-server-5.5.41-2.el7_0.x86_64' returned 1: error: Failed dependencies:
You will find full trace in log /var/tmp/packstack/20150704-200908-

This is an error pointing to the following log file entry:

Error: Execution of '/usr/bin/rpm -e mariadb-server-5.5.41-2.el7_0.x86_64' returned 1: error: Failed dependencies:
        mariadb-server is needed by (installed) akonadi-mysql-1.9.2-4.el7.x86_64

This is only my second install using packstack, and it is my first attempt at installing RDO packstack Kilo; so, I wasn’t familiar with the troubleshoot this kind of problem. It didn’t make sense to me that packstack would be trying to uninstall (rpm -e) MariaDB. The error indicates that the uninstall wouldn’t work because another package akonadi-mysql was using it — right? is that how I read this?  FYI:  Akonadi is a storage service that runs under KDE… I wasn’t familiar with it.

Browsing the RDO Workaround archives , I found a short article on this topic: Packstack fails when mariadb-server is installed. The body of the article shows a log file message that is different enough from mine that I didn’t find it right away.

I tried the recommended fix to uninstall MariaDB and re-run RDO packstack Kilo:

# yum remove mariadb-server
# packstack  --answer-file=packstack-answers-20150704-200908.txt

This fixed my problem!

I was able to run packstack to completion and bring up the openstack horizon dashboard. Note: I didn’t re-run packstack –allinone; I followed the packstack workflow requirement to re-run an install using the answer file previously generated.

Since the workaround was written for Juno and Fedora 20, I thought the fix was just a coincidence, but in reading the details, the original problem was triggered by installing KDE ontop of Fedora 20. Since I picked a KDE distribution of CENTOS7, maybe my problem and the original workaround write-up are related?!

Respectfully submitted,
Jack

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We did a little bit of research online, found good reviews, and then went to Best Buy and bought the Yamaha RX-V475 receiver. We connected it up and got it working just fine, and we were really surprised and delighted with the performance and features. Our music library sounds so much better played through a big receiver connected to our big speakers; so glad to get things working again!

As an old-school receiver person, I have been out of the marketplace for a long time. Since we last bought a receiver, iPhones, home network technology, and the world of HDMI have all become common place. When we got the new Yamaha RX-V475 AV Receiver, there were features that really surprised me… I was WOW’d! Here’s a summary of the new features:

REFERENCE: Yamaha RX-V475 Owner’s Manual

Airplay

Airplay is a feature that lets your iPhone play music directly through the receiver. We have several iDevices in the family and after we connected our Yamaha RX-V475 receiver to our home network, a little icon appeared in the music play app — this icon is the Airplay icon.

Press the Airplay icon and it will prompt you to play your music on the Yamaha. The Airplay icon shows, as follows on the play bar in you music app..

Wow, how long has this been around? I never knew about Airplay. This was so easy to use and works so well. Wow!

Just so you know:

• the iPhone needs to be on the home WIFI network;
• the Yamaha receiver only has a LAN cable. We were easily able to run a LAN cable to the receiver, but if that’s hard for you, then you can buy a WIFI adapter.
• if two family members both want to play their music on the Yamaha at the same time, the receiver listens to the most recently touched iPhone. This can lead to accidental music switching.
• I have iTunes installed on a home PC. Even that PC has an Airplay icon.

Reference: Airplay WIKI

Android App

The receiver comes with an Android App called “AV Controller.”

I was surprised at how well this worked. I thought I would just use the included clicker as the remote. But the Android App was really easy to setup and use. It works over my home WIFI, so I can control the receiver from anywhere in the house.

The app does what you’d expect. I can control volume/mute, inputs, radio tuning (AM/FM/Internet), or with a hat-tip to Airplay, the app lets you play music on your Android gadget through the receiver; the album art work and songlist display in the app with a look and feel much like an iPhone.

Again, your old-school author here had no idea that the Android App was so good. I was delighted. My son who has a Samsung Galaxy, got his app working with the receiver in just a few minutes.

Reference: AV Controller in Google Play

Music Through USB

So, I’ve known about music through USB for years. This is a feature we know from cars and clock radios. You plug a USB stick into a player, it finds the music and let’s you play it as if you were using an iPod.

What was new for me was that I could plug my old iPod (iPod Touch from 2008) into the USB slot. We used our white USB iPod sync cable to connect the iPod to the Yamaha.

From the front panel, the Yamaha RX-V475 receiver’s clicker, or the Android App, the receiver very intelligently treats content from the USB input; it lets one select music from the USB input and play through the receiver.

Our good old iPod had all of our family holiday and dinner background music. We used to take the audio output of the iPod and feed it into the AUX input of our old receiver. Much improved, we can now remotely play music from this iPod. This is improved  enough so for me to react with yet another wow!

Monitor Music Play Through TV Screen

We mostly use the Yamaha RX-V475 AV Receiver for playing music. The VFD front panel display and the iPhone or Android app user interface is really all you need for music.

We noticed that if you turn on the TV, the Yamaha RX-V475 displays useful information about the music (think iPod screen level of detail). It turns out this was way more useful than I though it would be.

Initially, I was wow’d by this feature. I liked it and I really didn’t expect it. Now that we’ve used it a little while, the TV display is MS-DOS text like vs Windows style graphics. (think original iPod vs iPhone). This user interface should be improved.

When Off, HDMI Passes Through

When the Yamaha Receiver is off, the HDMI inputs are still passed through to the outputs. This is surprisingly useful for our setup.

Our setup feeds the HDMI outputs from our STB, our XBOX, and our Blueray player into the Yamaha AV Receiver. The Yamaha then send one HDMI output to our TV. The receiver is basically an HDMI hub. The receiver takes the sound from the selected input (eg STB) and plays it through our speakers.

When the receiver is turned off, the HDMI hub function is still active. In the most typical case, when we are just watching TV, we turn off the receiver and listen to the sound through the TV speakers. My expectation was that when the receiver was off, the HDMI hub function was off, too. I was delighted (slightly wow’d) that the HDMI switching worked well for our case.

Digital Living Network Alliance – DLNA

Not new, and no surprise for us, the Yamaha Receiver’s network connection very easily discovered our music on our DLNA-enabled backup server. DLNA technology is not new to us and this worked as expected.

For background: DLNA is a technology that lets computers share music, photos and video across a network connection. When enabled on a computer, that computer advertises that it has DLNA formated content and any DLNA-aware player on the same network will offer a menu of that content.

Our home backup server is a Buffalo Linkstation. It has a DLNA server installed on it. From the “NET” button on the clicker or the front panel, press it a couple of times until you see the “SERVER” as the input source. Then from the display on the front panel or the TV screen scroll down to the DLNA server. By default, the Linkstation has some arcane name with “WXL” in it.

This is kinda cool. I know its there, but I am much more likely to play from my iPhone than use this capability.

The post Yamaha RX-V475 5.1-Channel Network AV Receiver appeared first on JackKozik.com.

The RAZR2 is a 3G/UMTS phone. It worked really well, and as a phone it traveled with me around the world. Canada, Mexico, Europe, Asia and South America. I finally decided to trade it in. The voice quality had detriorated and text messaging triple-tapping just became too much for me.

Phone store transfers contacts. My wife and daughter have iPhones so I felt pretty good about switching. The iPhone 5 has LTE and it made the choice simple. I was delighted to learn that the AT&T phone store people had a ready-made device to transfer all of my contacts from the RAZR2 to the iPhone. I was easily able to get my images off the RAZR2 using the blue tooth interface.

MMS while roaming, no more. An interesting feature of the RAZR2 that beats any of the new smart phones: I am able to send MMS’s while roaming. Smartphone users, who normally turn off their data service while roaming, take pictures and they get stored up until the data service is restored. I have been delighted to send live MMS pictures back home from overseas trips using my RAZR2. Maybe someday the data roaming prices will be low enough and I trust the service enough such that I will be able to turn on data services while traveling overseas.

iPod Touch

Retire my iPod Touch. Since I have been a long time iPod Touch user, I had no trouble sync’ing my iPhone 5 with my desktop iTunes and get my music collection transfered. Buying a iPhone 5 means retiring two devices. This is good.

Favorite Apps. I am a long time Android phone user and downloaded my favorites from the App Store: Instagram, Pulse, Tumblr, United, ScoreCenter, Pulse, Google Maps, Flickr, and Flashlight. I am not a iPhone power user. That’s ok. I’ll figure it out.

iMessage. A new quirky feature is messaging. If I am sending a text message to someone with an iPhone, instead of using AT&T’s SMS service, it uses Apple’s iMessage service — auto-magically. The only way you can tell is that the input field has a little “iMessage” gray background.  I guess iMessage is good, because it doesn’t count against my message plan, but since my messaging plan is unlimited, I sort of don’t care. But I did notice last weekend while I was in a bad coverage area, my iMessages were getting stuck. I learned that SMS messages seemed to have a better chance of going through. Not sure what the best practice is.

U-verse TV

AT&T U-verse. Another fun feature, is the AT&T U-verse (our new home TV service), has an iPhone app. I can watch TV shows and control the DVR from my phone. I’ve read about this, but now I can do this.

Footnote: It might seem like I’am a little bit of a luddite that I still have a RAZR2, but it’s more like I am a pack rat. I have an AT&T phone (iPhone), a Sprint HTC Android phone, a Verizon DROID phone, and a Verizon Android tablet. I have lots and lots of mobile gadgets. So I never really felt like I needed to upgrade, because except for AT&T I was up to speed on gadgetry.

Formally, I am retiring an AT&T Motorola RAZR2 V9x – I bought it in late 2007, it broke in 2010, I ordered a brand new replacement from a warehouse in Hong Kong (through eBay) and now I am retiring it.

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U-verse TV

Background on my AT&T U-Verse TV Install: I was at the AT&T phone store the weekend before last, getting a new iPhone 5. We saw the latest U-verse TV offering and we decided to sign up for the U450 Package. Our nice sales person booked us for an installation for the following Friday, and this write up is a log of my AT&T U-Verse TV Install.

All new coax. We’ve been a long time user of our local cable service, and it was behind on services capabilities and the user interface was frustratingly slow. For our new U-verse TV service we wanted new TV service only; no voice, no Internet. We continue to be pleased with our cable company’s DOCSIS 3.0 based cable modem service. For this installation  we didn’t want our cable modem service touched. We asked the U-verse installer to run all new coax for our installation.

Two home phone lines: which one? As part of the sign-up process, we asked the phone store person to use the home phone line that we currently use for our 10 year old Ameritech DSL. Our good old DSL still works as reliably as the day it was installed, but we wanted to use U-verse as a trigger to retire it. The phone store person said he couldn’t work this and that we would have to talk to the installer. That was ok. A couple of days before the installation, a nice person called us to confirm the installation; we asked him about which home phone line, and he too didn’t know and referred us to our installer. Hmm… was this going to be ok?

U-verse TV only for non-DSL line. On the day of installation, our installer person called and warned us that home phone service was going to be temporarily turned off while it was being repatched onto a VDSL connection to the neighborhood VRAD.

I politely complained that I wanted to retire our Ameritech DSL, but he said since that the DSL line wasn’t conditioned for U-verse service and that we’d have to wait for weeks. That settles it: our new U-verse TV service would be yet another broadband connection coming into our house (old DSL, Cablemodem, and now VDSL). Knowing that this is just temporary, I gave the go ahead.

VRAD->VDSL Pair -> NID -> 2-Wire Gateway worked first time. Our installer put a VDSL filter onto our phone line; the filter was cleanly mounted in our NID (out doors, on the side of our house). We verified POTS dial tone. Then the filtered VDSL signal was patched into our house over a spare loop in the existing cabling. A nice little RJ-45 style surface jack was mounted in the basement on the same wall as the rest of our home wiring. From there, a short 4 pair LAN style cable was run from the jack to the 2Wire 3801HGV Gateway. Our installer plugged it in and after 3 or 4 minutes the LEDs turned Green. It basically worked the first time.

Background on our VDSL:  In my neighborhood, an AT&T VRAD is installed across the street and behind some bushes. I had no idea! It’s a 2200ft loop length; good enough for 25Mbps service. He told me that I qualify for 3HD and 1SD video streams. He said my signal was “90%” — meaning I should not expect too much, if any, dropout. He said that my service was delivered with only one pair of copper wires with no bridge taps. If for some reason my service was iffy, we would have given me a second pair and “bonded” them together to get my signal up-to the advertised levels. He said for my neighborhood, my signal strength was really good and I shouldn’t expect any problems.

RG-6 Coax to 2 TVs. Next, our very kind and patient installer ran two new lengths of coax from our basement entry point to the family room and living room TVs. He also ran a short length of coax from the 2wire Gateway to a spot on the ceiling of the basement where he installed a passive splitter. Using two different tools, he very professionally put new coax connectors on and cranked them down with a purpose built wrench.  He offered to run coax to one STB and just use WIFI for the other; I was reluctant, and he readily agreed to run coax to both STBs.

Two STBs, one of them a DVR. The way U-verse service works, one the of the set top boxes is the DVR (Cisco IPN4320 Receiver) and the other STB shares it (Cisco IPN330HD Receiver). These STBs support 480i, 720p and 1080i high def; just what I was promised. For my old cable service, I have two STBs, each with their own DVR. The U-verse TV STBs are much smaller, surprisingly much quieter. The back of the new STBs had Coax-in/out, video-in/out and an HDMI connection. This matched up nicely with our old STBs and switching them out was easy.

On the very first power up, the STBs needed about 10 minutes to download updates and get registered into the network. In addition to coax, the STBs connect to the 2Wire Gateway over WIFI. . Not sure I saw any specific login or provisioning done. Our installer had the programming codes for our clickers; he set them up to work with our SONY and Samsung TVs from memory.  The 2Wire Gateway in the basement has a HomePNA LED; it was green.  I assume the video streams are sent to the STB over HomePNA over coax.  I wonder if the WIFI connections are carrying any traffic?!  I suppose that I could have asked for CAT-5 cable to my STBs.  I need to look into this more.

15 minute tutorial. As a last step of my AT&T U-Verse TV Install,  our installer spent 15 minutes with me helping me learn all the U-verse TV features. It is much improved from our old service and I was delighted that he was able to set the HD and SD aspect ratios to match our TV’s. Also, I asked for the most common troubles and how to fix:
- Power surges. With this configuration, power surges have been known to hose things up. He checked our grounding (thanks!!), but still if it happens, power cycling the 2-wire Gateway won’t be enough. You need to hold the red button on the back for 30 seconds.
- STB DVR sync. Sometimes, not sure when or why, the one STB will not see the DVR in the other. This isn’t supposed to happen, but it does and in order to fix, you need to power cycle and bring up the DVR STB first, then power cycle the other.
- 3HD/1SD limits. We need to remember that if we are recording 3 HD shows, then we can only watch one SD show, in the whole house, so we need to be mindful of the limit. Nothing is broken, you just need to learn the stream count limit.

Our nice AT&T U-Verse TV Install person left with everything neatly buttoned up and the service working nicely. Thanks!

Web-based apps. For me the next step was getting our U-verse online services working. We like using Watch ESPN and HBO Go. But first I needed to get an AT&T U-verse login id and password. Since I am not a U-verse Internet user, I was not given one. I called the AT&T help line and they very nicely gave me a userid@att.net user id and password. These are what you need to get access to AT&T U-verse web services. BTW, U-verse offers HBO Go, Showtime Anytime, Watch ESPN, TNT/TBS Everywhere, and Max Go.

Uverse.com. Also with the userid@att.net, I am able to use the U-verse App on my new iPhone to remotely program my U-verse TV DVR.

Poking around in the 2Wire Gateway. Even though I am not an Internet subscriber, I plugged my laptop into the 2Wire gateway LAN port just to see what would happen.  The gateway was running DHCP and it gave my laptop a 192.168.1.xx address with a gateway address of 192.168.1.254.  I went to http://192.168.1.254 and the gateway’s user portal home page came up.  From there, I saw that my VDSL was provisioned for 25181Kbps down and 2046Kbps up; this matched what our installer told us; I assume this is plenty of down stream bps for 3HD/1SD service.  Further, I saw that the WIFI was active and that my two STBs were connected to the gateway.  There are also some interesting usage logs that might be helpful for troubleshooting, if / when I might have trouble.  This looked very nice, but not something that I am likely to fuss with.

Not sure it will be a problem, but my home network now has another WIFI hot spot show up when we turn on our home laptop or tablet.  This is from the 2Wire gateway.  We already have 2 other hot spots originally put in place to get coverage everywhere in our house.   I hope the 3rd hot spot won’t interfere or degrade our home WIFI performance.  So far, too soon to tell.

Without alot of trouble, I loaded the U-verse Real Time application onto my laptop and was able to scope out the basics of the U-verse networking.  Not sure I really needed to do this, but it was intellectually interesting and potentially useful for debugging.

Still to do: I need to unsubscribe from my old cable service’s TV channels (but keep my Internet) and shut down and retire my good old Ameritech DSL.

Respectfully submitted,
JK

The post AT&T U-Verse TV Install 5/31/13 appeared first on JackKozik.com.

Our hotel is located in Tel Aviv, right on the Mediterranean.  From our hotel we can faintly see the clock tower from St. Peter’s Church and the Minaret of Al-Bahr Mosque / Sea Mosque.  Even though our hotel and Jaffa are both on the Tel Aviv Promenade, a stretch of boulevard full of people out for the evening, we decided to save time and took a taxi to Jaffa.

Our taxicab driver took us to the Abrasha Park at the top of the hill named Tel Yafo in Old Jaffa.  We walked around and saw some interesting sites:  a small park area with a sculpture named “The Gates of Faith,” “Tel Yafo Excavation” — an archaeological dig of an egyptian fortress, the “Wishing Bridge,” St Peter’s Church.

We started walking down the Jaffa Hill, following the Mifrats Shlomo Promenade, the walk way closest to the water.  We saw the Minaret of Al-Bahr Mosque / Sea Mosque, a beautiful view of the Tel Aviv night-time cityscape, Arab Hebrew Theatre of Jaffa.

When we got to the bottom of the hill we wandered among small food market along Yefet Street near the HaPishpeshim Market area.  We walked to the North East entrance of Old Jaffa and saw the Jaffa clock tower then took a taxi back to our hotel.

Jaffa is a port city that dates back 1440BC, with archaeological evidence suggesting its origins go back to 7500BC.  This is a nice small place to visit.

Tips:

The post Old Jaffa Walking Tour appeared first on JackKozik.com.

I’ve done fedora sendmail setup before on another one of my servers, but it had been so long, I had to start from scratch.  I started by finding a good general setup guide.  This one on the fedora wiki was most worthy.

So the instructions were pretty straight forward.  Since I own my domain name and have a static IP address, the setup is easy.  So I followed the instructions and, well, it didn’t work. My first problem:

Fedora Sendmail setup emails bounced, because email is from user@localhost

So my first couple of test emails sent to my web account bounced back to me, they looked like this:

----- Transcript of session follows -----
... while talking to mx0.gmx.com.:
>>> MAIL From:<root@localhost.localdomain> SIZE=665
<<< 550 5.1.8 Cannot resolve your domain {mx-us004}
554 5.0.0 Service unavailable

So I had to figure out why my server was putting userid@localhost.localdomain.  I learned that my /etc/hosts file was setup wrong.  There’s lots of fedora tips on how to setup your hosts file (here’s a related posting), mine was setup wrong.  One tip, use the sendmail diagnostic tool, as follows:

# sendmail -d0.1 -bv root
[...]
 SYSTEM IDENTITY (after readcf) (short domain name) $w = myserver
(canonical domain name) $j = myserver.mydomain.net
       (subdomain name) $m = mydomain.net
            (node name) $k = myserver.mydomain.net
[...]

The above is good. Before I debugged my localhost problems, this command showed localhost in each of the domain name lines.  Also, for debugging, I recommend using the mail -vv (two v’s) command line option.  It’s easier than looking in the /var/log/maillog file.

Next problem: the emails were addressed user@myserver.mydomain.net

The emails were working, but the From line should say user@mydomain.net.  I had to relearn how sendmail masquerading worked.  I had to setup the key parameters in the sendmail.mc file, as follows:

MASQUERADE_AS(`mydomain.net')dnl
FEATURE(masquerade_envelope)dnl
FEATURE(masquerade_entire_domain)dnl
FEATURE(allmasquerade)dnl
MASQUERADE_DOMAIN(localhost)dnl
MASQUERADE_DOMAIN(localhost.localdomain)dnl
MASQUERADE_DOMAIN(myserver.mydomain.net)dnl

But the masquerading wasn’t working.  When I went to the official sendmail man page for masquerade, it talked about the EXPOSED_USER option.  By default, sendmail assumes the root user never wants to be masqueraded.  Of course, I was troubleshooting my sendmail setup from the root login, so this option had me thinking something was wrong.  I turned of this option, and finally my fedorda sendmail setup was finished.  It took way longer than I thought it would and I felt it was worth writing up.

For reference, here’s what I changed in my sendmail.mc file:

define(`confLOG_LEVEL', `9')dnl
dnl EXPOSED_USER(`root')dnl
MASQUERADE_AS(`kozikfamily.net')dnl
FEATURE(masquerade_envelope)dnl
FEATURE(masquerade_entire_domain)dnl
FEATURE(allmasquerade)dnl
MASQUERADE_DOMAIN(localhost)dnl
MASQUERADE_DOMAIN(localhost.localdomain)dnl
MASQUERADE_DOMAIN(kozik2.kozikfamily.net)dnl

The post Fedora sendmail setup. Tips for hosts/domains and masquerading. appeared first on JackKozik.com.

I’ve had the watch get into funky modes where the time would disappear or the watch would beep every few minutes, and no combination of pressing buttons would restore the watch function, until I was able to get the instruction sheet out.

Well that brings up another issue, the instructions are printed in such small type that I can barely read it. So to better help me use my rather expensive (>$100) watch, I post here without permission a cut/paste from the PDF file I found on the Freestyle web site support page.

Freestyle Shark Watch Instructions (readable by me!)

1. Hour Hand
2. Minute Hand
3. Second Hand
S1 – Start/stop button
S2 – Lap/reset button
S3 – Mode button
S4 – Light button

TO SET THE ANALOG TIME

1. Pull crown out to frist click position B.
2. Turn crown to set time.
3. Push crown back to position A.

DISPLAY MODES

The watch has four display modes:HOME TIME (TIME), HOME TIME, ALARM (ALM1), STOPWATCH (STW) and COUNTDOWN TIMER (TMR). To change from one display mode to another, press S3 button once. The mode description will appear for 2 seconds before the selected mode is activated.

HOME AND FOREIGN DISPLAY

To display FOREIGN TIME, press S2 button when HOME TIME is displayed. The mode description (TM-2) will appear shortly before FOREIGN TIME is displayed. To change back to HOME TIME, press S2 button. To display the daily FOREIGN TIME ALARM, press S2 button when HOME TIME ALARM is displayed. The mode description (ALM2) will appear shortly before FOREIGN TIME ALARM is displayed. To change back to HOME TIME ALARM, press S2 button.

TO SET THE DIGITAL TIME AND CALENDAR

1. Press S3 button to select time mode.
2. Press S2 button to toggle between HOME TIME and FOREIGN TIME mode to set.
3. Press and hold S2 button for two seconds until the “SET” message
appears and the second digits blink.
4. Press S1 button to reset the second digits to 00.
5. Press S3 button, the minute digits will blink.
6. Press S1 button to set the minute digits. Holding down the button will speed up the process.
7. Press S3 button, the hour digits will blink.
8. Press S1 button to set the hour digits.
9. Follow the same pattern to set date, month, day (of the week), hour format and calendar format.
10.To set the hour format, press S1 button to toggle between 12-hour
and 24-hour format. The P.M. indicator may be displayed to indicate the time period 12:00A.M. – 11:59 P.M. in 12-hour format.
11.To set the calendar format, press S1 button to toggle between M-D
(month-date) and D-M (date-month) format.
12.After finish making all the settings, press S2 button to confirm.

NOTE: The chosen hour and calendar formats will apply to both HOME TIME mode and FOREIGN TIME mode.

NOTE: In FOREIGN TIME settings, only minutes, hours, date, month and day are open to setting.

TO SET THE ALARM TIME

1. Press S3 button to select alarm mode.
2. Press S2 button to toggle between HOME TIME ALARM and FOREIGN TIME ALARM mode to set.
3. Press and hold S2 button for two seconds until the “SET” message
appears and the minute digits blink.
4. Press S1 button to set the minute digits. Holding down the button will speed up the process.
5. Press S3 button, the hour digits will blink.
6. Press S1 button to set the hour digits.
7. After finish making all the settings, press S2 button to confirm.

TO TURN ON/OFF THE ALARM AND HOURLY CHIME

In alarm mode,
1. Press S2 button to toggle between HOME TIME ALARM and FOREIGN TIME ALARM mode to set.
2. Press S1 button once to activate the alarm. Alarm indicator will appear.
3. Press again to activate the hourly chime. Chime indicator will appear.
4. Press the third time to activate both functions. Both of the indicators will appear.
5. Press the fourth time to deactivate both functions. Both of the indicators will disappear.

WHEN AN ALARM OR HOURLY CHIME GOES OFF

A tune will go off by the hour if the hourly chime function is activated. An alarm tune will be emitted for around 20 seconds at the designated time when the alarm is activated. To stop the tune, press any button.

TO USE THE BACKLIGHT

Press S4 button to turn on the backlight

The post Freestyle Shark Watch Settings Instruction Sheet Too Small to Read appeared first on JackKozik.com.